SquareMeal Review of
Nestled between the high rises and multi-storey car park on Lewisham’s busiest highway, Sparrow is a surprise. Ex-St John husband and wife team Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar took a punt on up-and-coming Lewisham, and it’s paid off brilliantly – “a real winner” cheers one local fan. The glass-fronted kitchen works at full tilt, sending out sharing plates inspired by the world’s cuisines, with some “incredible flavour combinations” on offer – everything from summer pea and girolle bruschetta to massaman beef brisket with scorched rice. Sip the day’s cocktail while choosing what to eat, then settle in for delights such as tender bang-bang beef ribs with anchovy and miso aubergine (a punchy combo) or the subtle, spanking-fresh house-cured salmon with lemon and fennel seeds. If there’s pork belly on the menu, you will be treated to the crispest crackling south of the river. To finish, dark chocolate and caramel tart is sticky and just the right side of sweet, while everything on Sparrow’s refreshingly short wine list is available by the glass or bottle.