SquareMeal Review of
Smoke & Salt
Among the creative mayhem of Pop Brixton, in a tiny restaurant with a minimalist monochrome interior, two hugely talented young chefs are beavering away turning out innovative and astonishingly delicious small plates. Housed in the old Kricket site, it’s easy to draw comparisons and wonder if Smoke & Salt will follow its predecessor’s footsteps to a permanent site. From a menu that champions seasonal ingredients (the food offering changes every eight weeks) we tried everything that we could get our hands on: warm, doughy flatbreads smothered with caramelised onion and peanut butter, and topped with crisp vegetables; strips of venison contrasted with skirilie, a Scottish dish made from oatmeal fried with fat, onions and seasonings. Elsewhere, perfectly crisp roasted new potatoes come bathed in rich chimichurri and gorgonzola. To follow, try the indulgent, melting cacio e pepe, with melt-on-the-tongue duck prosciutto, cheese, black pepper and parsley. The single pudding makes use of whatever is in season – we enjoyed baked apple topped with creamy parsley root custard, almond brittle and cinnamon. The short drinks list has a handful of cocktails, beers, an unfiltered Prosecco and two Portuguese wines that are perfectly suited to the food. At the end of our meal, chef Remi Williams tells me Smoke & Salt is less concerned about Michelin recognition and the like, and more focused on serving good food – as for comparisons with Kricket, we’ve no doubt that these guys are destined for a similarly promising future.