SquareMeal Review of
Smith & Wollensky (bar)
Nearly 40 years after serving its first customers in Manhattan, this solidly American surf & turf restaurant has launched its maiden overseas outpost in London, taking up two floors of the imposing art deco Adelphi Building. Cocktail fanciers have a choice of two substantial art nouveau and Tiffany-inspired bars. In the US of A, things tend to be done on a bigger scale: hence, 100ml sprit measures in mighty Manhattans and Martinis (£16). Notable American classics include Sazerac and Aviation, while Kirsch Cosmopolitan, Breakfast At Tiffany’s (a Chase marmalade vodka, Champagne cocktail) and Ready Aim Fire (a Tequila and mezcal pineapple Sour) provide bang for your buck at £13. Smith & Wollensky’s own-label Napa red blend – a ballsy beast at 14.5% abv – is among 30-odd wines available by the glass. The bar menu’s standouts include yellowfin tuna tartare, jumbo lump crab cake, cajun Gorgonzola burger, and burrata and tomato salad.