SquareMeal Review of
Six Portland Road
Oli Barker and chef Pascal Wiedemann (key players from Terroirs) hit all the right buttons when they opened this laid-back eatery in 2016: honest, sensibly priced modern cooking combined with cheerful service is proving to be a winning formula. Inside, soothing colours set the mood, with an open kitchen at the rear, a sharing table for casual drop-ins and a bar dispensing specialist beers alongside imaginative European wines – including trendy tipples from trail-blazing importers Les Caves de Pyrène. To eat, we suggest kicking off with some Italian cured meats or glistening ‘petits lucques’ olives, before tackling crab mayonnaise, rabbit and pork terrine or mackerel with romesco sauce and watercress on toast. Spanking-fresh brill is served with sea vegetables, capers and brown butter, while full-flavoured chicken leg comes with artichokes, fennel and aïoli. Proper puddings and perfectly ripe cheeses are further signs of the owners’ effortless all-round professionalism. In short, a great addition to posh W11.