SquareMeal Review of
There’s serious skill coming from the ambitious kitchen at Singapore Garden, which has a repertoire that goes way beyond the usual Anglo-Cantonese staples. Sure, you’ll be treated to well-wrought
renditions of all the favourites – from sticky glazed spare ribs to chicken with cashew nuts – but there’s a lot more waiting to be discovered. Hainanese chicken is a softly steamed bird in a light
soy broth, & Teochew braised pig’s trotters get a subtle kick from star anise & five spice. Singapore & Malay specialities include the likes of deeply fragrant laksa soup, Assam curried
monkfish & fried kway tiow (that time-honoured fried noodle dish sold by Singaporean street hawkers). Don’t bank on street-food prices, though. The bill, like the classy modern surroundings,
will be upmarket, & the occasionally hit-&-miss service does little to soften the blow.