SquareMeal Review of
Silk & Grain
Steak has a British accent at Silk & Grain, sourced from Aberdeenshire Royal Warrant-holder Donald Russell, aged for up to 35 days and cooked on a Josper – the ‘Aston Martin’ of grills. We like the dry-aged Porterhouse or Tomahawk bone-in rib-eye to share; you can add surf in the form of a £14 half lobster. And if the tangy blue cheese hollandaise or mushroom and Merlot sauces don’t suit, try the infused butters to accompany your beef: perhaps chilli and lime or leather-aged Scotch whisky. Gussied-up chips with truffled Parmesan are among the fashionable accessories, as is the ubiquitous mac 'n' cheese. Wary bovinophobes could instead choose the Gressingham duck and sweet-potato salad. Dining takes place on the mezzanine of this handsome two-tiered site, where the room has been refreshed by a pale, neutral colour scheme. Cocktails both classic and original hold sway in the buzzing ground-floor bar.