SquareMeal Review of
Santa Maria Fitzrovia
Since launching in 2010, this indie Neapolitan pizzeria has been turning out some of the best examples of the genre in London: slow-proved, quick-fired bases topped with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and other premium ingredients. The Ealing original was dinky and cramped but, since branching out, the owners have given diners a bit more elbowroom while maintaining their high standards in the kitchen. Pizzas invoke the names of 16 saints, from the titular Santa Maria to San Giuseppe (smoked mozzarella, Yorkshire sausage, Parmesan and wild broccoli) and San Rocco (burrata, Pecorino, roasted aubergines and rocket), while desserts offer the likes of homemade tiramisu and affogato as well as specially imported Gelato Oddoni ices. A selection of all-Italian beers and wines, plus a line-up of fashionable cocktails keep the drinkers happy – just don’t expect to bed in for the whole evening.