Salon 22

18 Market Row , London, SW9 8LD

  • Salon London restaurant Brixton British
  • Salon London restaurant Brixton British
  • Salon London restaurant Brixton British

SquareMeal Review of Salon

THE WINE STORE AT SALON IS NOW OPEN

Brixton’s Market Row is developing into something of an all-round foodie destination, although we think the pick of the bunch is this shabby-chic bare-bones dining room above what was Cannon & Cannon’s charcuterie shop. Chef/owner Nick Balfe’s off-the-cuff evening events have developed into a confidently run restaurant with a keen eye for attractive presentation and an occasionally masterful use of seasonal ingredients – not to mention a zealous commitment to ‘zero waste’. Meals are founded on a fixed-price four-course menu shot through with inventive touches and bright, perky flavours: fresh coco beans topped with cured egg yolk; fillet of pork with salsa verde; duck egg custard with roasted plums. The handpumps champion local breweries, while the wine list celebrates Old World producers. Salon is also open for weekend brunch featuring equally creative, on-trend ideas such as scrambled eggs with ’nduja on toast. If you’re a fan of vino, stop by the wine store, where you can buy wines to take home or drink them on-site, alongside wine-matched dishes. 

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9.0

Food & Drink: 9.0

Service: 10.0

Atmosphere: 9.0

Value: 9.0

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Alex K. 15 December 2012

“Quarter after eight? If you get here at six-thirty,” Owen's friendly Scots voice emerged from the telephone receiver, “we can have you out in good time for THE HOBBIT at the Ritzy.” So we booked our table for two, and arrived promptly, and settled into a grand meal: Lardo / shaving of apple / chestnut, salt-fat / sweet / vehicle, with cider; pleasantly bitter gently sauteed sprout tops, little intense crumples of chlorophyll, with flecks of anchovy and an amiable dry white; venison haunch, SO flavourful!, parsley-root mash, and walnuts both pickled and in kernel, and a decent red that came into its own after a forkful of the venison; then, to finish, pear poached in wine with semisweet-chocolate mousse and a muscat. That was the plan. Indeed, Owen would have had us out the door laughing and timely; but we opted for the cheese board, another glass of red and generous portions of a delicately ricotta-like chevre, a reserved Scots cheddar, and a powerful stunner of an English Gorgonzola — schedule demolished, then — and with a “Good Heavens, look at the time!” we were down the stairs and out the door. Not to worry. The dwarves, with Gandalf and Bilbo, disembarked from the eagles onto the crag from which Erebor was visible looming faraway, the audience took off its 3D glasses and disassembled itself as twos and ones into the evening fog, and we hurried back to Salon, past an expostulating security guard, and up the stairs again for our pudding, among the washing-up and receipts-counting, eavesdropping on Nick the chef at the next table as the orders for the next day's supplies went onto various wholesalers' answering machines. Delicious and excitingly novel, interesting food; friendly and obliging staff; a truly memorable night — the glow lasted all the way down Coldharbour Lane to Loughborough Junction and through Camberwell.

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Salon is included in the following SquareMeal lists