SquareMeal Review of
Sack at The Napoleon
Topped by the Devil’s Darling upstairs, tailed by the excellent Black Rock in the basement, Sack is one of three bars at The Napoleon, a boutique hotel with just one king-sized bedroom. Its rather unremarkable interior resembles a dusty bodega in Jerez, set to 1970s disco beats and peppered with shots of celebs. The name is a 16th-century word describing dry Spanish wine (from seco), and sherry takes pride of place here. At least two varieties of each style are offered by the glass, including chalky, nutty, subtle La Guita (entry-level manzanilla), and at over three times its price, Apostoles (a glorious, tangy, slightly smoky González Byass palo cortado). An appealing trio of cocktails includes Fancy Spanish Lemonade and a summery amontillado, gin and nectarine Mule. Food takes the form of tapas – Serrano ham off the bone, olives, Manchego, boquerones – from a list that’s limited by Sack’s lack of kitchen space.
Sack at The Napoleon is recommended for