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The latest occupant of a site that has often changed hands, Rubedo is a well-run little bistro that we hope is here to stay. The signs are good: there’s an impressive wine cellar, with strengths in French and Italian natural wines; the kitchen team hail from Shoreditch’s modern-British outfit, Lyle’s, and source top-quality ingredients; and the food is simple yet fabulous. Decor is Shoreditch eatery meets French bistro, the bare-brick walls scattered with chic French prints; jazz plays in the background. The constantly changing menu is written on a board, with only four starters, three mains and two desserts (plus cheese and snacks). To start, grilled purple sprouting broccoli is admirably partnered by a cloud-like dollop of salty creamed smoked cod’s roe. Lamb might follow, pleasingly pink and accompanied by a crisp, sweet slice of celeriac and deliciously sour pomegranate seeds. In all, a worthy addition to this villagey locale.
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