SquareMeal Review of
Tucked behind a handsome stone frontage is this equally attractive wood-panelled restaurant and bar, where a warm welcome awaits thanks to a large fireplace and friendly staff. Although there are plenty of cocktails and occasional live music, food is the main draw and chef proprietor Carl Riley certainly knows his way around the kitchen. With a determination to keep things local, he’s partnered up with New Close Farm who supply all the meat. Indeed, the menu is a celebration of Derbyshire, and has been constricted with imagination and care but priced for return visits rather than one-off special occasions. A starter of ham, egg and chips delivers ham hock croquette with pickled quails’ eggs, pineapple gel and a aside of chilli potato chips. Follow that with seabass served with buttered lettuce, ceps and a crab and grapefruit emulsion or squash and English truffle risotto with crispy cabbage, taleggio and edible flowers. Lovely.