Lunar

Josiah Wedgwood and the forward-thinking Lunar Society predicted many things. But even they probably couldn't have seen this coming. Having earned Whatley Manor two stars, and himself Young Chef of the Year, Niall Keating has headed back to his native Stoke-on-Trent. Here he has opened Lunar, a restaurant that melds the Lunar Society, Wedgwood pottery and his own, unique cooking style.

While the restaurant is worlds away from Whatley, Keating’s unique style courses through its veins. Having orbited the giant moon sculpture, sipping on the ever-popular Gusbourne rosé, we landed and the real journey began. Brandy snap-esque tempura - a Keating classic - here housed melty courgette and aubergine, tinged with yuzu aigre-doux. Velvety kimchi congee formed a plinth for black pudding and a quail's egg; a triple hit of umami. Simple, elegant and punchy, each dish is a masterpiece. What might look like sweet and sour chicken yielded to a gentle bite, revealing its true identity: miso caramel veal sweetbreads. Soft, nutty and dangerously addictive.

The use of stunning Wedgwood crockery celebrates the restaurant's location. But Keating takes this a step further, entombing chicken in the Staffordshire clay itself. Armed with a hammer from head chef Craig Lunn, we gleefully smashed it open to feast on the succulent prize within. Aside from the obscene decadence of velvety pomme puree, the sides were lighter, with fermented lettuce and pickles providing a welcome kick of freshness.

A spiced pineapple tarte tatin ended this explosion of a meal with a resounding bang, and the chewy, almost-blackened pastry will live rent-free in our heads until we undoubtedly return. Aside from the secret bar hidden behind a false bookcase, the most surprising thing about the restaurant is the pricing. Three courses here will only set you back about £50, ensuring that many more can enjoy this utterly perfect cooking.

Set within the iconic World of Wedgwood in Staffordshire, Lunar is an award-winning culinary experience, complete with a restaurant, bar and gallery themed around the Past, Present and Future.

Inspired by Josiah Wedgwood, and the fellow founders of the ‘Lunar Society’, a movement in the 1700s comprised of intellectuals and creatives. As such, Lunar aims to embody the ethos of the movement by creating forward-thinking food focused around sustainable practices and local produce. Lunar works closely with Barewell Gallery, celebrating and showcasing local artists, as well as celebrating produce from across Staffordshire.

Lunar strives to provide guests both quality and taste, whilst being mindful of tomorrow and putting the focus on sustainable practices across their kitchen, bar, and interior design. When it comes to the menus, expect a variety of local ingredients. For lunch, guests can start with the likes of twice backed cheddar souffle with golden raisins and candied walnuts, or smoked salmon terrine with charred cucumber and a wasabi emulsion. Mains include options such as beer battered haddock with triple cooked chops and mushi peas, gnocchi with butternut square, blue cheese, and pumpkin seeds, or picanha steak with bordelaise sauce and skin on fries.

For dinner, guests can choose from crab with salt cod and heritage tomatoes, or roscoff onion tatin, before moving onto rump of lamb with pomme puree and sauce paloise or lemon sole veronique with samphire in a Champagne sauce. When visiting on a Sunday, Lunar whips up an exceptional roast, offering a choice of beef sirloin or pork loin served with all the trimmings.

Lunar showcases the creativity and talent of the region to a local, national, and international audience to make all who encounter Lunar inspired, delighted, and proud of the wonderful area of Staffordshire.