SquareMeal Review of
Red Fort Lark Lane
Opening a large new Indian restaurant on quirky Lark Lane seemed a bold move when the curry scene in the city centre was dominated by the loud after-the-pub crowd. Nevertheless, this smartly attired evening-only venue has come into its own, attracting groups of friends with its seemly decor (polished wooden flooring, ochre walls hung with attractive subcontinental prints) and a menu that adds a few esoteric dishes to the usual curry house roster. A starter of chilli pangas fish is simply delectable, its delicate white flesh barely cooked and served in a sauce peppered with whole green chillis and lifted by the bite of coriander. To follow, king prawn tandoori in a rich balti sauce proves a head turner, the huge prawns spitting and sizzling on a searing plate as the serving trolley is wheeled speedily through the restaurant. Plentiful lamb, chicken, duck and vegetarian curries provide enticing alternatives.