SquareMeal Review of
Mayfair’s Mahiki was the early-noughties ‘it’ club, welcoming everyone from Kate Middleton to Beyoncé. Now that the buzz has somewhat quietened, its owners must be hoping this Kensington sibling will once-again amplify the volume. The nightclub’s in-house restaurant Pufferfish is an explosion of colour and kitsch, with garden furniture, palm-tree wallpaper and wicker hanging baskets. To get the party started, order the brand’s signature cocktail ‘Treasure Chest’, which combines brandy and peach liqueur with a bottle of Champagne for £140. Food is a hit-and-miss pan-Asian affair: seared salmon sashimi topped with deeply intense truffle ponzu is a highlight, as are the moreish crab- and prawn-stuffed maki rolls. Sadly, though, our crispy pork belly was let down by tooth-crackingly hard crackling, while Wagyu beef and truffle gyoza arrived lukewarm and swimming in ponzu miso. Sweet-toothed diners will be disappointed by the lack of a dessert menu, but the persistent can insist on a Mahiki Beach – a gimmicky mound of chocolatey gravel made to look like sand and topped with coconut ice cream and two miniature umbrellas. Come here for the sweet staff and fun atmosphere, but don’t expect consistency from the food.