SquareMeal Review of
Polpo Notting Hill
Russell Norman has headed out west to Notting Hill for this branch of his big-hitting, Venetian style bácaro. The venue follows the original Polpo blueprint to the letter – if it ain’t
broke, don’t fix it seems to be the thinking behind the trendy brick-and-tile interiors, the freewheeling approach and the small plates menu scrawled on rough paper. As always, the food is
designed for sharing – from ‘cicheti’ snacks such as asparagus with mortadella and goats’ cheese or salame butter and broad bean crostini to various pizzette, spicy meatballs, fritto misto and
plates of grilled lamb with caponata and basil. Front of house is being overseen by Alexis Ross (formerly at Mishkin’s) and there will be plenty of Aperol spritzs to keep thirsts quenched – if tumblers and carafes of vino don’t
appeal. Bookings will be taken at lunchtimes, but evenings are strictly no reservations.