SquareMeal Review of
There’s a distinctly Italian accent to this “simply wicked” Finsbury Park pizzeria and bar – a “great local” run by two friends who share the name of Marco. The kitchen serves up “proper stuff”, so kick off with char-grilled Provolone and spicy marinated vegetables, beef carpaccio or pan-fried scallops tossed with courgettes and chilli before sampling a first-rate pizza from the ‘forno a legana’ (wood-fired oven) – we’ve always liked the calzone with ham, salami, mozzarella and olives, but other options range from a spinach version with a fried egg to porcini, speck and tangy Taleggio cheese. There are plenty of pastas and mains too – from pappardelle with broccoli and pancetta to char-grilled beef tagliata. You can sit outside, but it’s more atmospheric, fun and noisy indoors, where the pace is fast. Pappagone has many devotees among London’s Italian community, so best book in advance.