SquareMeal Review of
With the relocation from a Soho shoebox to an airy Spitalfields dining room, Pitt Cue’s surroundings now match its burning ambitions. This barbecue Mecca gained a strong following in W1 for its smoky cuts of high-quality meat, and although much shabby character has been sacrificed in moving, the benefits of this open-plan, industrial-chic site are evident. The restaurant now offers reservations, cocktails and impeccable bar snacks (we recommend Mangalitsa ham and walnuts) – as well as meat seared on the huge, gleaming grill displayed at the end of the room. Sourcing is key, with all beef coming from a single Cornish supplier and bread baked in-house. Infectiously enthusiastic staff made us want to order everything: from unmissable, yeasty fat-dripping bread, to crisp scrumpet (a pork-filled disc fried in breadcrumbs) with a slick of apple sauce. We were however disappointed with our mains, cured and smoked pork jowl consisting almost entirely of fat, disguising the slivers of beautifully pink, tasty flesh; and smoked beef neck was dry at its edges, and supremely salty. Nevertheless, there are many positives: Pitt Cue excels at smaller plates and sides (mushroom and bone-marrow mash was a highlight); main-menu prices are reasonable (though specials will significantly grill your bill); and the drinks list holds interest aplenty via Mezcal Martinis, bourbons and sparkling Australian Rieslings. The trump cards here are service and atmosphere, and as this new site beds in we expect food quality to improve. Already, walk-in tables are highly sought after, so it’s best to book.