Palatino 1

Squaremeal Review of Palatino ?

Chef Stevie Parle (Dock Kitchen, Craft London and Rotorino) fattens up his London restaurant portfolio with his all-day Italian, open from breakfast until dinner. Housed on the bottom floor of an office block (spy the desk-dwellers by the loos), the buzzy space is brightened with industrial-style lighting and light-yellow booths. The open kitchen boasts a pasta machine and stone oven, which both inform the menu: freshly-made gnocchi alla Romana is a buttery, melt-in-the-mouth delight, while ravioli parcels concealing spinach and squash make for a great lighter alternative. Main courses failed to impress on our visit, however. Bland-tasting chicken, pancetta and pistachio meatballs seemed undercooked, while fried gnocchi made for a too-tough side dish. Desserts are certainly worth a splurge though, such as an indulgent chocolate sponge peppered with the crunch of pistachio and honeycomb. Attentive staff and a 45-bin Italian wine list (each available by the glass) also impress. Our advice? Skip the mains and focus on the delicious antipasti and pastas.

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71 Central Street ,London EC1V 8AB

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Some very good food, some indifferent

by   platinum reviewer (96)

Feb 2017

It's always difficult to review a restaurant that displays inconsistency not just between visits, but between courses. After our appetisers ( Fried sage & Stracciatella toasts) and pastas (Gnocchi & Bombolotti) we were thinking that maybe here is the replacement for Zucca we've been searching out for over a year now. The sage and gnocchi in particular got lots of points. After the main courses the debate was whether we'd go back at all. In some ways its unsurprising, for...

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David H.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 6
  • Service: 8
  • Atmosphere: 6
  • Value: 6

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  1. Published :

    The Hedonist :: The Hedonist Palatino

    Stevie Parle is the enfant terrible of the London restaurant scene. Still in his early 30s he has just opened Palatino, his fifth London restaurant with Rotorino, Dock Kitchen, Craft London and Sardine completing the band. Trained at The River Caf&, Moro and Petersham Nurseries Stevie covers a variety of styles; from global explorations at Dock Kitchen to Craft’s Britishness and now a focus on Roman food at Palatino, named after the eternal city’s Palatine Hill. Can he keep the standard up with five places? And with Isaac McHale’s new Italian joint Luca in the locality is Clerkenwell, traditionally an Italian neighbourhood,...
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