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“Food from my heritage!” purrs one Polish reader, but Ognisko also has much to offer those who aren’t part of the capital’s expat community. Its al fresco terrace (a marquee-framed space backing onto Prince’s Gardens) is one of London’s “undiscovered gems” and the vodka bar (with its long list of home-made flavours) is a riot, while the high-ceilinged former townhouse transforms into a wonderfully romantic spot at night. “Good-sized portions” of traditional Polish nosh offer “excellent value” and bags of choice. Start with zupa wisniowa (chilled cherry soup with nalesniki noodles) or a hot-smoked salmon salad with beetroot and horseradish dressing. The big flavours can start to stack up, so we’d recommend keeping things light where possible – perhaps caviar-loaded blinis or grilled sea bass with fennel, apple and caper salad followed by pulkownik (sorbet with a shot of frozen vodka). “Five-star treatment” and some top-end wines back everything up.
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