Nutbourne 22

Squaremeal Review of Nutbourne ?

This homely British all-dayer is named after a West Sussex farm and vineyard owned by the Gladwin brothers (behind Notting Hill’s The Shed and Rabbit in Chelsea), which tells you everything you need to know about Nutbourne. Known for their rural proclivities, the Gladwins have once again embraced the theme, conjuring an atmosphere and look akin to being in a (very large) farmhouse kitchen: chunky wood surfaces and potted plants abound, while the low-lit room glows like a hearth in the evenings. Casually attired, charming staff drag a large specials blackboard from table to table, filled with market-price rib-eye cuts from Sussex, while the all-day menu takes inspiration from Europe for predominantly British ingredients. Ever-changing choices are strictly seasonal but on our visit, BBQ grill selections included soft slices of fallow deer placed on a crispy pastry bed with a mulled wine gel. Elsewhere, a bowl of ‘pasta’ was in fact long, thin strands of raw potato in a warming, nutty carbonara sauce: it’s assured, pretty and satisfying stuff. An emphasis on vegetables and salads make this a great choice for veggies, while English wine fans will be happy with the strong showing from Nutbourne’s vineyard. The only problem is its location, being nowhere near any major stations: lucky locals.

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