Northcote 22

Northcote Road, Langho , Blackburn, BB6 8BE

1 reviews

84 British Lancashire

  • Northcote Restaurant Blackburn
  • Northcote Restaurant Blackburn

SquareMeal Review of Northcote

SquareMeal award hall of fame 1999-2018 logo badgeSynonymous with confidence, genuine warmth and top-ticket hospitality, the Michelin-starred Northcote is a bastion of unbridled generosity, complete with a cookery school, terraced tables and a stylishly reconfigured dining room, where guests enjoy wave upon wave of inventive seasonal food. Although this Lancashire veteran will forever be linked with its former chef/patron/director Nigel Haworth, the kitchen is now solely in the hands of executive head chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen – known for creating elegant, visually striking dishes with big flavours and clever textures. We can’t get enough of the “impeccable” Northcote classics, but there is much more to enjoy here: hand-cut venison with blood orange, roasted yeast and capers; wild turbot with boulangère potato and snails bourguignon; roast Cumbrian lamb cutlets with sticky sweetbread, wild garlic, barley and wood-roasted leek; Northcote ‘black bee’ honey with organic milk and lemon. Artisan North Country cheeses are kept in peak condition, Craig Bancroft’s drool-inducing wine list is fastidious in every detail, and you can sleep content in one of the gorgeous bedrooms.

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UK Top 100 Restaurants 2017

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Wine List Of The Year Finalist

The residents of Blackburn are not especially renowned for being stingy, so it must be sheer good-heartedness that led the team at Northcote to work on such generous mark-ups for its wines. The list is split up traditionally (ie geographically), but it’s well done. There’s plenty of information for those who want it, coupled with a clear layout for those who don’t. France, of course, is well served. But it’s gratifying to see countries such as Portugal and South Africa getting plenty of recognition here, too.


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Nearby Tube/Rail Stations

Langho Station 1km

Whalley Station 2km

Address

Address: Northcote Road, Langho , Blackburn BB6 8BE

Opening times

Mon-Sun 7.45-9.45am 12N-2pm Sun-Thurs 7-9.30pm (Sun -9pm) Fri-Sat 6.30-10pm

Nearby Landmarks

Whalley Abbey 2km

Wilpshire Golf Club 2km

Details

Telephone: 01254 240555

Website:

Cuisine: British

Dinner: £68/88 (5/7 courses)

Private Dining: 14, 16, 36, 60

6.0

Food & Drink: 7.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 5.0

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 2.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 2.0

Paul A. platinum reviewer 10 June 2015

One of the first things we noticed when having our aperitifs in the bar was an indicator of the kind of unschooled service we would not expect in a Relais et Chateaux establishment and which was unfortunately repeated in one form or another throughout the evening and at breakfast the following morning. Our fizz was inexpertly poured, resulting in drips down the outside of my wife's glass. No attempt was made to remove them. Although the wine flight looked reasonable, my eye was caught by one of the binends in the wine list, a Chapoutier Condrieu which would go very nicely with four of the first five dishes, we opted for that and a glass of Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir for the lamb. Much to our surprise when we were shown to our table we saw that the wine had been decanted, without any reference to us as to our preference. It was clear that, having a "pre-starter" and the first course to come before starting on the Condrieu, and then a further three courses to be covered, the wine risked reaching an inappropriate temperature, so, to the evident and uncalled for disapproval of the wine waiter, we asked for the decanter to be put on ice. The so-called pre-starter was cleverly designed to tickle the tastebuds and please the eye with its good local goat's cheese mousse, pickled beetroot and beet ice cream topped wirh red-veined sorrel. Then came some lovely seared Angus beef with sensational roasted marrowbone, salsify done three ways, pickled, deep-fried and puréed, and trendy microherbs for extra tones of taste and colour. It was a generous portion for a starter, which worried us about our capacity for the rest of the menu. Domes filled with smoke are a bit passé, but the dehydrated mushrooms, duck liver parfait, morels and deliciously pungent shijimi made us forget the unnecessary theatrics very quickly. Decent crab followed with the interesting support of scallop roe in a cigar, fennel crisp, edible charcoal, dehydrated horseradish and pickled fennel, which actually added up to a dish that didn't really seem to know where it was going. The next course was also quite complicated but it worked better - sheep's milk ricotta with a gazpacho-style garlic and bread soup accompanied by acidulated tomatoes covering the whole range of tastes from sweet to sharp, tomato jelly, Tabasco pickled cucumber which remained remarkably mild, and the ubiquitous micro-herbs which seem to be a sine qua non for restaurants these days. For us char-grilling does no favours to halibut, a fish that needs no tinkering, and the Hollandaise sauce was then almost guaranteed to neutralise the taste of the fish, which was also served with trendy scorched little gem and sliced asparagus. The lamb cutlet that came next was rather better than some but suffered slightly from underseasoning, something that did not apply to the excellent lamb belly, and the Hispi cabbage was good; however, we did have doubts about the bitter turnip and the undercooked spring onion among the spring veg as well as the lamb crackling. The dessert struck us as having lost its way slightly with the dominant basil cream needing careful combining with the mango and blueberries, and the dish was only saved by the super coconut choc ice. Overall, perhaps a bit more focus on the macro and less on the micro would be of benefit. Typically, neither of the two Northcote "names" were in the kitchen for completely different reasons, but, with the provisos mentioned above, senior sous-chef Kirk Haworth did fill the gap competently.