SquareMeal Review of
Synonymous with confidence, genuine warmth and top-ticket hospitality, the Michelin-starred Northcote is a bastion of unbridled generosity, complete with a cookery school, terraced tables and a stylishly reconfigured dining room, where guests enjoy wave upon wave of inventive seasonal food. Although this Lancashire veteran will forever be linked with its former chef/patron/director Nigel Haworth, the kitchen is now solely in the hands of executive head chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen – known for creating elegant, visually striking dishes with big flavours and clever textures. We can’t get enough of the “impeccable” Northcote classics, but there is much more to enjoy here: hand-cut venison with blood orange, roasted yeast and capers; wild turbot with boulangère potato and snails bourguignon; roast Cumbrian lamb cutlets with sticky sweetbread, wild garlic, barley and wood-roasted leek; Northcote ‘black bee’ honey with organic milk and lemon. Artisan North Country cheeses are kept in peak condition, Craig Bancroft’s drool-inducing wine list is fastidious in every detail, and you can sleep content in one of the gorgeous bedrooms.
UK Top 100 Restaurants
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Wine List Of The Year Finalist
The residents of Blackburn are not especially renowned for being stingy, so it must be sheer good-heartedness that led the team at Northcote to work on such generous mark-ups for its wines. The list is split up traditionally (ie geographically), but it’s well done. There’s plenty of information for those who want it, coupled with a clear layout for those who don’t. France, of course, is well served. But it’s gratifying to see countries such as Portugal and South Africa getting plenty of recognition here, too.