SquareMeal Review of
Like its evergreen septuagenarian owner, Michael Chow, this Knightsbridge institution seems to defy the sands of time. Almost 50 years down the line, it’s as handsome and elegant as ever with its chrome lampshades, monochrome colour schemes and artwork from the likes of Peter Blake. The restaurant’s rather sexy old-school demeanour lures in rich ‘new Knightsbridge’ types and corporate wallets – none of whom wince at the £30 price tag for a dish of citrus-flavoured crispy beef. The reason? When it comes to Chinese comfort food, few places can deliver quite like Mr Chow. There’s hardly a dish we don’t adore, from the sticky glazed prawns to lettuce wraps of minced spiced chicken, mixed seafood awash in a gooey white wine sauce, and – of course – the dessert trolley. Chow’s original vision of Chinese food served by Italian waiters happily lives on, epitomised by a charming maître d'.