SquareMeal Review of
The second venture from the Peckham-based couple behind Miss Tapas, Mr Bao heads east to find inspiration for its small plates, Taiwanese-style. This light, calm, convivial space has pastel-coloured maps of Taiwan, framed Taiwanese stamps, and contemporary prints dotting its patchily whitewashed walls. A beautiful blue-and-white tiled counter separates the dining room from the open kitchen. Our favourite of the fluffy steamed buns is the ‘bao diddley’, with tender pulled chicken, a slick of subtle but insistent wasabi mayo and a dollop of kimchi; other must-try dishes include the Taiwanese sausage (a spiced pork sausage made by local butcher’s Flock & Herd to the chef’s secret recipe) and the rich, sticky dessert bao – fried, drenched in chocolate, and topped with a toasted marshmallow. An inventive brunch menu incorporating ‘bao benedict’ and saké-based cocktails is a brilliant hangover salve for locals (mainly hip singles) – as is the wonderfully warm service.
Mr Bao is recommended for