SquareMeal Review of
Mirth, Marvel & Maud
After a long tussle with those out to convert this former art deco cinema into an evangelical church, pub group Antic – backed by local residents and a certain Sir Mick Jagger – have secured the building’s future as a community entertainment venue. While the rest of the Grade II-listed gem is painstakingly rejigged, you can now sample fancy drinks, a dozen wines (from £15) and craft brews in its new bars. Cocktails, served at the former popcorn kiosk, include Vieux Carré, Aperol Spritz and Gentlemen’s Tea Time (a peppermint-infused Olmeca Tequila, mezcal, and Cointreau Margarita). To eat, you can snack, east London-style, on cockles, mussels and whelks; go American with a lobster roll, Reuben sandwich or muffuletta (a meaty New Orleans stack); or share charcuterie, cheese, seafood and veggie platters from £11. Laurel and Hardy once capered in the opulent surroundings of this Walthamstow marvel – much to great-great aunt Maud’s mirth.