SquareMeal Review of
Kitsch almost to the point of parody, Mari Vanna's "absolutely fantastic" Imperial Russia-meets-Cath Kidson interiors have become a hallmark for this six-strong international group – and the Knightsbridge outlet is no exception. Marrying finely crafted painted furniture with glass chandeliers, heavy drapery, walls of black-and-white portraits and cabinet upon cabinet of Russian trinkets, it's quite an assault on the senses – although it clearly appeals to modern Russians hankering after a slice of the old motherland. Expect to see suited oligarchs scoffing beef stroganoff opposite wafer-thin spouses contemplating classic Olivier salads (sausage, pickled cucumber, peas and baked potato) with a glass of bubbles in hand. Elsewhere, big tables of ladies enjoy sharing platters of salted herring and cured pork, while first dates tuck in to bowls of borscht, mushroom dumplings and pork fritters. Service is as glamorous and patriotic as the setting.