SquareMeal Review of
All Saints Road has strong form as a location for top-quality Asian restaurants: pan-Asian Uli used to be at No.12 before moving to higher-end premises near Notting Hill Gate, and now Salvation in Noodles founder Colin Tu has chosen the street for this Vietnamese barbecue restaurant. It’s a fairly simple, homespun set-up, with a front dining room by the bar offering more appeal than the space behind. Don’t be deceived by the look of the place though, as the cooking is top-notch; beef was the highlight for us, served as a skewer that’s wrapped up in a sheet of steamed rice vermicelli along with fresh herbs and fish sauce. We also loved the deeply flavoured short-rib atop a pile of rice with half a runny egg to fold into the rich mix, although pork shoulder and chicken thigh skewers were pretty good too – as was an open ‘spring roll’ of chicken and wood-ear mushrooms. To drink, there’s a short and snappy wine list, plus beers and well-made cocktails. The only glitch on our visit was sweet but slow service – a side effect of Mam’s early success that should hopefully improve with time.