SquareMeal Review of
Stuffed with sharp City suits, this sleek, splashy, grill-brasserie-bar behemoth might be a location from The Wolf Of Wall Street II. It fills an entire mezzanine, affording grandstand views of goings-on below, with a design – all corporate dark woods – that has something of the airport lounge about it. Club Class cocktails (from £9.50) include Palermo Soho (a white Torrontés, Belvedere vodka, ginger, lime and camomile cup), and Bella Muchacha (an elderflower mousse-topped Don Julio Tequila, with rhubarb bitters, vanilla liqueur and pomegranate juice) which is described as (cringe!) ‘a beautiful girl in a glass’. Feeling patronised, feminists may prefer fella-friendly fixes such as American Dandy (Woodford Reserve bourbon, Cocchi Americano, chocolate and smoked-cherry syrup, Kümmel, cherry Heering and spiced bitters). An Enomatic system offers around 30 fine wines by the glass, and bar food encompasses ceviche, sautéed oysters (with bacon, onion and chilli), and beefburgers served in black brioche.
M Bar is recommended for