SquareMeal Review of
Once home to Reuters, this “grand old piece of Fleet Street history” was conceived by Sir Edwin Lutyens, although the building’s 21st-century interior comes courtesy of that latter-day doyen of design, Sir Terence Conran. There’s a lot going on here: a wine bar and bistro, private rooms, a members’ club and a full-on restaurant. The soothing decor has that Conran blend of sleek modernity and timeless classicism, while the menu offers something very similar. Cod fishcakes powered up with fennel are a typical starter, alongside picks off the ‘raw bar’ (soused mackerel with white grape gazpacho and prawn toast, perhaps), while mains promise well-judged combinations such as saddle of lamb matched with ratatouille and chargrilled baby gem or roast stone bass with squid, risotto nero and chilli gremolata. After that, try the pistachio and olive oil cake. Fixed-price business lunches are “always consistent”, while France holds pole position on the auspicious global wine list.
Wine List of the Year Award Finalist
Proof that small needn’t mean boring, this A3-sized wine bar list mixes the fascinating with the high-quality tried-and-tested for its City clientele. From Croatian Malvazijas to Godello, and Mondeuse to Aglianico, there’s barely a boring wine on the 40-bin list, 90% of which are available by the glass – and the pricing is hearteningly fair. Great beer selection, too.
Lutyens is recommended for