SquareMeal Review of
‘It really feels just like an American diner', says one fan – so Tom Conran's bijou eatery must be hitting the mark. Everything from the metal napkin dispensers to the green-leather booths,
veneered tables and neon signs aims for kerbside US cool, and an all-day offer of pancakes, breakfast burritos and high-stacked sandwiches says it all. The punchy menu promises full-on American
indulgence, whether it's a plate of huevos rancheros (fried eggs, chorizo hash, tortillas, beans, guacamole and salsa) or an Aberdeen Angus burger – the green-chilli option with cheese is
greasy-lipped guilt food. The sight of genuine ice-cream sundaes and floats should encourage the odd ‘yee-hah', with stateside beers increasing the chances you'll say it loud. Meanwhile, milkshakes
and US cereals (Lucky Charms, anyone?) make it a safe bet for kids, too.