SquareMeal Review of
The successor to popular 2015 launch Lobos Borough, this restaurant and basement cocktail bar is on a mission to offer some of the best Spanish food around – and it succeeds. Eye-roll past the clunky buzzwords (‘bites of instincts’, anyone?) for classic tapas options, alongside meaty sharing platters and the odd deviation, such as Uruguayan picanha steak with baked bone marrow. The inviting interior glows under amber lights, with a ground floor of bar stools set beneath a snugger second room with an open kitchen. Basic and rickety furniture feels at odds with the prices being charged, but the kitchen readdresses the balance: our fragrant prawn croquetas (the filling changes daily) are attention-grabbingly delicious, with a strong balance of crisp and moist texture, while a large portion of grilled octopus legs arrives scattered with chorizo, its silky flesh encased in softly blackened skin. Spanish competition in the West End is fierce and Lobos occasionally misfires with so-so pan con tomate or an overly sweet cocktail, but it comes into its own with the meat selection. A platter of Ibérico pork, for example, presents various, delicately cooked cuts, well matched by a range of Spanish wines. The easy-going atmosphere is galvanised by a buzzing location and a classic pop soundtrack, making Lobos a likeable Soho addition.