SquareMeal Review of
Le Paris Grill
Arrayed like so many hunting trophies, the severed neckties displayed at Le Paris Grill are a not-so-subtle reminder that it’s best to go open-necked if you’re visiting this venerable family-run steakhouse on your birthday. Tradition doesn’t end there: steak tartare is prepared at the tableside, cheeses are served from the trolley, and the menu has a distinctly French accent – from snails in garlic and parsley butter to the chalked-up daily specials. We rate the charcoal-grilled beef here: Irish fillet with béarnaise sauce, chateaubriand or the 750g rib to share, served with hand-cut chips. Wines are predominantly French and relatively affordable. If the comfortable but windowless dining room emits a certain function-suite anonymity, the same can’t be said for the delightfully snug basement bar, where you can tuck into steak sandwiches washed down by bottled French beer. A second Le Paris Grill opened at 6 Little Britain in 2014.