SquareMeal Review of
Immune to the latest whims of dining fashion, Didier Garnier's stately French stalwart glides along gracefully, taking huge pride in the trappings of classic Gallic hospitality – from dicky-bowed waiters to sliced white baguettes and artfully turned vegetables. It's no wonder that the old-school Chelsea brigade flock to the handsome cream-and-blue dining room and its sought-after terrace. The cooking is timeless and executed to perfection – from peerless, precisely spiced beef tartare to fruits de mer (we particularly enjoyed the unshelled brown shrimps with mayonnaise) and expertly cooked slabs of turbot with earthy mushrooms and buttered mangetout. Desserts such as crêpes Suzette and baba au rhum also need no translation. Pick from one of London's best French wine lists and unwind at your leisure – safe in the knowledge that you're in very capable hands.
Le Colombier is recommended for