Le Petit Beefbar

In the era of Salt Bae, flashy style-over-substance steak restaurants are commonplace. So when we heard about a luxury beef restaurant with branches in Monaco, Saint-Tropez and now London, we were sceptical. The Beefbar name, however, has gathered considerable praise, most notably a Michelin star for its Hong Kong opening.

Tucked away off the King’s Road, the modest shop front would suit a neighbourhood patisserie. Clearly, Le Petit Beefbar wants to break the mould before you walk through the door. Push through said door and you are greeted by a tardis-like space, reminiscent of an upscale Parisian brasserie, lit by umbrella-like lampshades and art deco wall sconces.

Two delicate but potent cocktails arrived first: the Cuckoo Clock and Nikkei Forecast. The first was a kind of Earl Grey gimlet, while the second was more of a plum and coffee-laced old fashioned. The subsequent vegan gyoza were serviceable, although the wrapping was a little thick. The other starter - a ‘world exclusive’ - stole the show before the mains had a chance. Kobe Beef Jamon with a savoury pecorino panettone was as lavish as it sounds. Impossibly thin tranches of arguably the best beef in the world melted on the tongue, with a subtle and complex flavour only 18 months of ageing in Spain can achieve.

Moving to mains, the fillet and dry-aged T-bone were both as good as steak gets. The T-bone’s herby crust was activated by the slight charring, while the fillet offered a softer, more delicate texture. The skinny fries weren’t piping hot, but they had the skin on which earns brownie points from us. Wine pairings courtesy of Giada the manager were spot-on, careful not to distract from the flavour of the meat and the service was friendly and attentive. The much-hyped Beefbar sauce, however, was somewhat forgettable: a slightly unappetising shade of green and too similar to Béarnaise. Finally, the Fior di latte gelato mantecato (very soft and plain Italian ice cream) with a selection of toppings was simple and fresh, balancing the previous courses nicely.

Vegetarians and vegans steer clear. Otherwise, London has a new destination for steak enthusiasts with deep pockets.

The concept of Beefbar, which started in Monte-Carlo in 2005, is simple: a twist on the classic steakhouse, with modern luxury interiors. Now, the Beefbar brand has expanded all over the world, including Paris, Monaco, Athens, Rome, Saint-Tropez, Hong Kong and of course London. This stylish chain turns heads wherever it lands and has been featured in publications like Vogue and Wallpaper. Most notably, the Hong Kong branch earned Beefbar its first Michelin star in 2017.

When it comes to the food, the clue is in the name. Almost every starter and main is beef-based, so probably not the best place to take a vegetarian or vegan. Meat-lovers, however, have much more to choose from. Starters include intriguing creations like a take on a Croque monsieur, but with the addition of dry-aged ribeye beef prosciutto. For something less European, there is a bao bun with jasmine tea-smoked Wagyu brisket and Asian BBQ sauce. 

Moving to the main event, there are nine beefy mains, including a tagliata with cherry tomatoes and parmesan, classic steak frites and fillet frites, a double cheeseburger and miso black beef. For each of the steak dishes, the menu includes the country of origin, breed and feed (such as grain for 500 days). The showstoppers, however, are the Wagyu ribeye and the cream-of-the-crop Kobe beef, which is priced per 200g. Desserts include equally decadent entries like a caramelised brioche with salted caramel sauce and buttermilk ice cream. 

The wine list includes a wide range of European whites, reds and rosé, including some by the glass, as well as an impressive selection of sparkling, with bottles running up to £425. Cocktails are original, playful creations, such as the Nikkei Forecast, made with Nikka Coffee grain whisky, Akashi-Tai plum sake and Angostura bitters. There are also mocktail options and a good choice of spirits and liqueurs