SquareMeal Review of
True to its name, there’s something addictive about L’Absinthe. Set up in 2007 by exuberant expat Burgundian Jean-Christophe Slowik (who worked with Marco Pierre White for 20 years), this neighbourhood brasserie has won over the locals with its homespun appeal and quirky charms. It’s a fine spot for dinner with friends, particularly as the menu lines up unfussy bourgeois staples with some impressive wines – many offered at retail price (plus £10 corkage). Leeks vinaigrette with poached eggs or marinated herrings with potato salad might give way to beef bourguignon, cod fillet with ratatouille or confit duck with braised red cabbage and baby onion sauce. And with crêpes Suzette or absinthe-spiked crème brûlée to finish, it’s all highly reassuring. Next door is the Spirit of Absinthe, a café and deli/bar where you can drop in during the day for drinks and snacks.