SquareMeal Review of
Bright-orange paper lampshades in the window cheer up Kiraku’s plate-glass frontage – and there’s plenty more to cheer about once you’re inside this small, utilitarian izakaya. Expect to find groups of suited Japanese salarymen, young local couples or single sushi fans watching football on TV as they nibble at the bar. The menu covers much of the classic repertoire, so pick your way through ‘toro’ tuna nigiri and scallop sashimi, nibble on a boiled prawn and cucumber maki roll or go off-piste with flying fish roe and sea urchin. There are also several hot ‘bowl’ dishes such as chicken and egg on rice, king prawn tempura or pork katsu curry, plus some more esoteric specials – perhaps monkfish liver with ponzu or deep-fried fishcake with cheese to go with a shot of saké or shochu. ‘Kiraku’ means ‘relax and enjoy’: a pithy summation of its appeal. Takeaways available.