SquareMeal Review of
First-time restaurateurs with a great idea but no funds are turning to ‘kitchen incubators’ as a way of developing their concepts on a shoestring. Founded by Cynthia Shanmugalingam, Kitchenette is the first of its kind in the UK and is located beneath Steve Parle’s rocking Dock Kitchen on the Portobello Dock development. Kitchenette’s programme of four-six week residencies kicks off with ‘pao wow’ – modern Indian small plates from Anshu Ahuja, who has recreated the tastes of Mumbai, Kerala and Goa with dishes such as salt fish croquettes with green chilli and lime aïoli, roast squash and cauliflower with salsa verde or spicy chicken with tomato, yoghurt and fenugreek, crispy okra and fried kale. Next up is Louisiana BBQ, followed in 2015 by Persian food and Japanese rice-bowl donburi cooking. To drink there’s a small selection of biodynamic wines, beers and cocktails.