Jolene

21 Newington Green , London, N16 9PU

Jolene Bread
Jolene Pasta

SquareMeal Review of Jolene

22

"VERY GOOD"

From the outside, this new venture from the guys behind Primeur and Westerns Laundry looks like a candlelit private party – although appearances can be deceptive. Jolene is first and foremost a bakery but, come nightfall, it morphs into a restaurant with an ever-changing chalkboard of sharing dishes.


The simplicity of the Italian-leaning menu will be familiar to fans of the owners’ earlier ventures. Don't come here if you’re on a carbs-free regime, because their bread is as good as it gets; the sourdough almost chewy, slightly tangy and perfect with plates of jamón de Teruel or Tuscan salami so pretty it could pattern a dress.


Occasionally, simple veers into plain, as in a plate of romanesco with only a few almonds and raisins to add some interest, but almost everything else is stunning. Warm, rosemary flatbread slathered with herby oil is perfect with bowls of pasta made from home-milled flour – our buttercup-yellow ravioli filled with soft pumpkin and sage was unforgettable. Hefty mains such as an entire beef's cheek, bourguignon-style are designed for sharing, or you could go solo with a huge fillet of expertly cooked stone bass in a rich, satisfying retro butter sauce.   


As for the vibe, think Notting Hill minimalism meets Shoreditch warehouse with a Parisian jazz soundtrack and some cool customers (Nick Grimshaw was having a low-key dinner when we visited). Our advice: book ahead, arrive early and have fun watching the place fill up.


Photo Credit: Patricia Niven

StreetSmart

For 21 years, StreetSmart has raised money for homeless people by adding £1 per table to diner’s bills at participating restaurants nationwide throughout November and December.


Since its conception, the StreetSmart campaign has raised £8.8 million, supported by over 500 participating restaurants, such as Meatliquor, St John, The River Café, Polpo, The Providores and Barrafina.

Explore our selection of participating restaurants in London..

Jolene Location

21 Newington Green , London N16 9PU

Opening times

Tues-Sat 9am-5pm (Thurs -11.30pm Fri-Sat -12M) Sun 10am-11.30pm

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