SquareMeal Review of
The Caspian Sea is the inspiration for this Northcote Road eatery; for the less geographically inclined, that means you can expect flavours from Turkey and the Middle East, with bags of fragrance and spice. The most important piece of equipment in the kitchen is the medieval-style charcoal-fired oven, in which bread is cooked in the traditional way, then served with za’atar-spiced oil. Other Middle Eastern delights include slow-roasted lamb shoulder with pomegranate glaze, chickpeas and Caspian spices or seabream with harissa and preserved lemons. Those after something less substantial can lick their fingers after sticky sumac chicken wings or lamb kofta skewers, while all should save space for lemon cake with poached nectarines. Turkish tea is order of the day, but there are plentiful cocktails, with true-to-origin bases including pomegranate and melon juice for those after an alcoholic beverage.