SquareMeal Review of
Restaurant James Sommerin
Overlooking the estuary on Penarth’s esplanade, James Sommerin is a restaurant that gets everything right – “I cannot fault it at all”, declares one fan. Occupying the ground floor of a grand old Edwardian building, the light-drenched dining room is smart but free from formal frippery, with a view into the open kitchen from generously spaced tables. Service, overseen by James’ wife Louise, is wonderfully warm and natural, but also unfailingly well-informed – whether you’re enquiring about the all-British cheese display or the treat-packed wine list. With a Michelin star under his belt, Sommerin delivers some show-stopping dishes, be it a liquid pea ravioli smothered in sage cream and Serrano ham (as seen on Great British Menu), sea bream with langoustines, chickpeas and artichokes or a dessert involving blackberry, yoghurt, honey and oatmeal. Great produce is a given (we love the 30-day aged sirloin and the Welsh brill with Jersey royals), and the food is reckoned to be superb value too. Of course, those opting for the chef’s table might prefer to make a weekend of it in one of beautiful boutique rooms. In short, “everything is superb”.