SquareMeal Review of
Those seeking a side order of designer decor and celeb spotting à la Nobu will find little satisfaction at long-serving, family-run Ikeda, where ultra-traditional service and thoughtfully rendered food are the stars of the show. Revered dishes include flame-seared o-toro (tuna) steak gleaming with warm fat, grilled squid ‘legs’ with ginger, silky chawan mushi custard spiked with citrus, barbecued eel on rice with teriyaki sauce, and belly pork with garlic and miso. There’s also a top-drawer selection of sushi and sashimi loaded with spanking-fresh turbot, mackerel, shrimps, scallops and the like to go with Ikeda’s fascinating list of premium sakés and umeshu (plum wines). Mrs Ikeda and her smiling brigade of “delicate” waitresses in black kimonos run front of house, while busy action in the open kitchen adds some theatre to the discreet, understated room.