SquareMeal Review of
House of Tides
With a Michelin star in the bank, business is booming at the House of Tides, and big-name North Country chef/proprietor Kenny Atkinson has extended the interiors of this Grade I-listed merchant’s residence on Newcastle’s humming Quayside. Drinks are still served in the flagstoned bar, while the main dining space occupies the first floor: above this is a new pastry bar and private dining area, with a walk-in wine cellar at the very top of the building. It’s “excellent in every way”, says a fan. There’s a choice of menus, although innovative user-friendly food is the bottom line, with an emphatic modern British accent and some “fabulous” rustic notes – from mackerel with artichoke and blackberry or butternut squash with bacon and truffle to venison tartare with beetroot, blackberries and kale or lamb with broccoli, tomato and radish. After that, expect a sting in the tail from the likes of pear with almond and ginger or an assemblage of raspberry, lemon and pine nuts. “I’m dying to go back”, confesses one convert.