SquareMeal Review of
HIX Oyster & Chop House
This is where Mark Hix first got going under his own steam back in 2008 and, a shed load of oysters later, it’s still a useful address by Smithfield Market. The space is simple enough, a British brasserie if you like, and service can be “a little erratic to say the least” – although it’s never less than charming. Food-wise, it’s not all about Loch Ryan No 2s and Pyefleet Creek’s finest bivalves – the location by Smithfield market ensures that the quality of the meat is also “superb” (try a whopping Moyallon pork ‘baron’ chop to share). Otherwise, char-grilled Torbay cuttlefish might turn up in a first-course salad, game is sure to figure in season, and eclectic dishes such as goat curry with rock samphire pakoras show the kitchen’s mettle. Pre-theatre deals and well-reported Sunday lunches (“with a jazz band playing”) are added attractions, while cocktails and some compelling digestifs keep the party going.