SquareMeal Review of
The Hind's Head
Owned by Heston Blumenthal since 2004, The Hind’s Head’s 2017 reincarnation (by Steven Saunders of Fabled Studios) blends its history as a 15th-century coaching inn with Heston’s signature whimsical luxury. The ground-floor dining room retains its ancient pubby feel via reclaimed panelling, rich red leather banquettes, antique beams and low lighting; while the newly minted ‘Royal Lounge’ upstairs comes draped in quirky Heston-isms including a 3D-printed cockatrice, meat mincer lighting and a blunderbuss chandelier. Food-wise, the old carte has been replaced by three regularly changing set menus named after English queens. The fabled Scotch egg is still perfectly ovoid, crisp and runny, while other classics such as lapsang souchong-cured salmon also put in an appearance. Our three-course ‘Mary’ menu yielded a chicken, leek and ham pie pot pie with mash followed by a slice of delicate treacle tart and milk ice cream, although dishes from the four-course ‘Aleyn’ version also show customary Blumenthal precision (seared scallops with ‘Waldorf’ flavours, for example). Service is chirpy and relaxed, and a “unique” cocktail menu matches the serious wine list.