SquareMeal Review of
“So good you don’t need to go into town”, exclaims a fan of this smart-looking Crouch End eatery with its chunky wooden tables and pubby bar. Specially sourced regional produce, rare-breed meats and heritage vegetables (from the owners’ farm in Buckinghamshire) fly the flag for British produce – so expect anything from scarlet kale to Dexter beef on the weekly pickings list. Otherwise, “sensitive cooking” is the order of the day, with a daily menu promising the likes of Cornish gurnard with peas, baby courgettes and cider fricassee or Telmara Farm duck with malt-roasted heritage carrots, redcurrants and hyssop. To start, nibble on spaghetti squash pakoras; to finish, try apple-marigold drizzle cake with woodruff custard. Drinks also stay with the programme, so take your pick from British craft beers or a raft of Old World wines (many from biodynamic producers). “Unfailingly charming staff” add to the pleasure of it all.