SquareMeal Review of
Outside tables at Gusto’s Liverpool outlet are at a premium during waterfront celebrations around the Albert Dock – as are those near the window. With its elegant vaulted-brick arches, cast-iron pillars and catch-all Italian menu (plenty of pizzas and pasta, salads and classic mains, alongside brunches and bar snacks), the venue is understandably popular. Couples take seats at the inviting bar, while family groups cluster around large tables. Cold smoked salmon arrives with intriguingly spiced avocado, alongside a tangy red pepper purée and capers. To follow, flattened rump steak is 28-day aged, and sprinkled with sea salt, pepper and chilli flakes. It is served, waiters explain sternly, either well done or medium rare; the extreme thinness of the steak rules out finer gradations of cooking. A side of steamed spinach with sea salt offsets the meat beautifully. For a postprandial treat, diners stroll out on to the lovely dock once more.