SquareMeal Review of
Primarily a members’ club dedicated to the world of international relations and independent journalism, the Frontline Club’s handsome restaurant is open to the public. Refurbished in 2016, a snug mezzanine level has been added to the ground-floor dining room, all housed in a 19th-century Hackney carriages factory. Dimly lit and clad in reflective surfaces, the mezzanine contrasts and compliments the airier, naturally-lit dining room below, which is watched over by walls of large, press photography prints and a troupe of young staff. Le Caprice-trained chef John Edwards serves an international menu using produce from the Norfolk farm of owners Vaughan and Pranvera Smith. On our visit, there wasn't a dud dish among the likes of stone bass ceviche with jalapeño, scallops with haggis and a textbook, mustard-fuelled steak tartare. Such providence means you'll pay a lot for meat and fish here, so journalists might want to invite better-paid dates. Service is patchy and strained but certainly charming, while reasonably priced wines focus on France before trotting off across the globe. All in all, this is a solid Paddington option.
Frontline Restaurant is recommended for