SquareMeal Review of
Epicure by Richard Davies at Celtic Manor
Decamped within the vast, five-star Celtic Manor resort, Epicure is a labour of love from chef Richard Davies – one of Gordon Ramsay’s former protégés and a regular on BBC’s Great British Menu. Aimed squarely at “discerning gourmets”, the dining room’s crystal chandeliers, walnut floorboards and stylish napery chime with the resort’s timeless elegance and “fantastic atmosphere”, while the daily changing menu puts seasonal ingredients to the fore in a roster of “great” dishes. Summer might see precision-poached duck egg with peas, wild garlic and ham hock, while winter could usher in the likes of torched mackerel with celeriac, apple and walnut or 48-hour slow-cooked pork belly with shallot, baked apple and tenderstem broccoli. Indulgent desserts such as mandarin brûlée with bitter chocolate sorbet and aero hit the mark, the wine list harbours some stunners, and staff are warm as well as efficient. “Fine dining at its best”, declares one fan.