SquareMeal Review of
Brixton sophisticates’ latest cocktail lounge comes in the shape of this large bar/diner/dancehall hybrid spread over two warehouse-style floors. A witty Union Jack-covered sofa sets the scene for
a playful Brit-art pose that, overall, doesn’t quite gel. At £7.50, cocktails such as French martini, English garden & Brooklyn (a Manhattan sweetened with maraschino liqueur) are adequate,
while a dozen sub-£20 wines include a cracking Rioja Crianza. Service is breezy, & there are late-night romps upstairs, too. An all-day food offer brings starters of squid in ale batter, Caesar
salad or mussels in perry, ahead of chicken & leek pie with mash, macaroni cheese with ham hock, & ratatouille-stuffed butternut squash. But after a less-than-electrifying Saturday
we’re in no hurry to try Sunday roasts with all the trimmings.