SquareMeal Review of
CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT, DUE TO REOPEN IN 2018
Network Rail’s plan to redevelop the Atlantic Road railway arches is disturbing locals, fearing the big brand chains will swoop in and rob Brixton of its unique boho charm. Set in one such walk-through arch, this new twin space bar feels like an indie but it actually belongs to Antic, whose 40-strong portfolio of shabby-quirky boozers includes nearby The Dogstar and Effra Social. More cocktail lounge, less pub, Ekcovison’s name refers to an English TV and radio manufacturer established in 1924, the era this late lounge’s decor turns to for inspiration. It is not surprising then, that of the 10 signature sips on offer, the oak-aged Negroni (£8) and a sloe gin, apricot brandy and lemon take on New York Waldorf Astoria favourite, The Charlie Chaplin, both hark back to the Jazz Age. More contemporary confections include Chasing Dragons (chilli- and vanilla-infused vodka, gingerbread, blackcurrant and apple) and The Nifty (prosecco and elderflower with mango and lime rather than vodka), a distant cousin to Tony Conigliaro’s 2002 classic, The Twinkle. At the time of writing, food is but a twinkle in Eckovision’s eyes but modern global tapas are promised, good with wine from £18 or bottled beers.