SquareMeal Review of
Duke of Sussex
Character aplenty suffuses this sizeable old pub, constructed on a corner site towards the end of the 19th century and now owned by the Metropolitan Pub Co. Don’t miss the stonking skylight in the dining area, adorned with cherubs and glitzy chandeliers – though the place as a whole isn’t overdressed. Its unreconstructed bar is stocked with real ales and the menu takes inspiration from Spain. There’s a great garden to enjoy in good weather as well. Tuck into classic tapas such as chipirones, tortilla and ham croquetas, or order them as a starter if you’re taking the three-course route. Main courses aren’t entirely Iberian, so you’ll find rib-eye steak with peppercorn sauce, and chicken pie for two, sitting alongside pork, chorizo and bean stew. Finish with chocolate brownie or sherry cream with raspberries. The wine list sticks to Europe, apart from Spanish-speaking Argentina and Chile, though there’s nothing from Sussex. The Duke would not be amused.